
The trip began in Bangkok, Thailand, from where we took the night train to Nonhkai, near the Lao border. From Nonhkai we cycled through Laos, Yunnan and part of Sichuan to Chengdu. From Chengdu we took a train to Xinjiang, and did some more cycling for three weeks. We left China via Vietnam.
Laos was fantastic, quiet roads, big hills, and friendly villages. Met other cyclists from Australia, Netherlands, Germany, USA, France, Japan, UK. In Olly's opinion Laos is one of the best cycling destinations in Asia (equal with Cambodia). However we were sorry to see Vientiane has been recently lost to the Toyota corporation and Luang Prabang and Vang Vien have succumbed to the bicycle to motorcycle transition. Laos can now add motor vehicles to its list of environmental problems, along with unexploded ordinance, the usual "Asian haze", deforestation and soil erosion.
Southern Yunnan (Xishuangbanna) was fairly easy. Further North the sealed road disappeared and we bumped our way over many hills through one of the poorer parts of China. We met many interesting people along the way, including Mr Tang, 66 years old and cycling from Shanghai on a bike that cost $50. He was beginning his 6 year tour of China! On arrival in Dali we had 1000 new stickers made in simplified Chinese, copying the carbusters Chinese slogan. In English it translates roughly to "Car is not as good as bike".
After leaving Dali most of our time was at higher altitude, and there was snow in several places. In Sichuan we crossed a few more high passes before descending to Chengdu and the summer heat.
Xinjiang was a little disappointing. The flatulence of certain politicians and terrorists has lead to China closing the most interesting part of the Karakoram Highway to "independent travel" (there is still a bus service over the Khunjerab pass), and Pakistan is no longer issuing transit visas at the border. It would make more sense to ride the KKH on the Pakistan side only, in which case you are allowed up to the pass and back. Kashgar is a complete disappointment, having lost its footpaths to cars and motorcycles. On the bright side, the part of the KKH that can still be traveled is nice.
We then returned to Yunnan and finally cycled to Hanoi Vietnam. Kunming (Yunnan) has banned petrol powered motorcycles whilst still allowing bicycles and electric motorcycles. This made the city is quite pleasant compared with similar sized cities in SE Asia.
Ting and I have now returned home, and have begun two new projects Carfree Asia, and the Beijing to Paris carfree rally. The latter having been inspired by an issue of Chinese Geographic, which we found in a cafe near Lugu Lake, Yunnan.